Amazing Andaman

I’ve been dreaming of Andaman for a few years now. It started when my older brother traveled there with his girlfriend, now his wife and mother of his three kids (god, we’re old!), and he came back with the prettiest pictures of crystal-clear waters and white sanded beaches. When we moved to Thailand, I didn’t even realize that it’s actually around the corner.

Amazing indeed!

In the past year, we’ve traveled all around Thailand, leaving Phuket out of the mix. I had no desire to go there. It’s known for busy tourism, huge resorts, malls, traffic – all the stuff I don’t miss at all. But a spontaneous trip brought us there, at just the right timing.

We’ve traveled around Thailand, and one destination was never on my radar – Phuket. A big, busy city, known for loud drunk tourism, malls, huge resorts, everything I don’t fancy. But a spontaneous trip led to a few beautiful days in Phuket. The city was empty and calm, and we enjoyed the cocktail bars and a very charming hotel in the old town, almost all to ourselves. It was an excellent work stop during a beautiful trip, which is pretty much a dream come true, working and traveling in complete harmony. No dramatic planning, simply following your desires, discovering surprising locations.  

Khao Lak and the hotel you must visit

But the most tempting thing about Phuket is that only an hour and a half north, you’ll find Khao Lak. Khao Lak is a small town, nature reserve, and heaven on earth. On the incredible Andaman coast, forest and jungle melting into the clearest water you’ve ever seen and the softest whitest sand. I have absolutely no complaints about Koh Phangan, my love, but these beaches are a whole other level.

Like all our trips during this covid year, (check out this delicious North Thailand expedition) we didn’t feel the need to book anything in advance. We drove until we wanted to stop and chose whatever hotel fitted our mood at the moment. And our spirit that day led us to Devasom, the prettiest hotel we’ve ever been to! We thought nothing would exceed our experience in the hotel in Greece on our honeymoon, where Zooey Deschanel stayed in the room next door. But we were wrong, big time.

Devasom exceeded every dream and imagination. Located right on the beach, surrounded by a forest and jungles, our room was nestled in front of a flowing stream where you could kayak or sup to the sounds of birds. Everything felt like a Disney movie. 

There are two incredible restaurants in the hotel; both were very welcoming to us as vegans, still a very unusual concept for Thailand. Each one of the staff members was so helpful and friendly. We asked if they have almond milk. One of the waitresses immediately said yes, and without asking, drove to 7/11 and brought a few cartons, so wherever we order coffee, we have exactly what we crave. It was such a sweet gesture.

We’ve spent the first half day picking our jaws from the floor. Every tiny detail in the room, restaurant, garden, the pool was on point—beautiful, fitting nature, unique and convenient.

Similan Islands, heaven on earth

We dedicated the second day to exploring Similan Islands, islands in the Andaman sea, known for their clean beaches, and clear waters, and are the desired diving spot since they are part of a national reserve, colorful and lively. The waters were indeed clear, in all imaginable shades of blue, and white sand, and once we started snorkeling, we met so many fish in all colors and shapes and even a sweet sea turtle which swam straight to us.

But it was incredibly depressing to see an endless amount of trash generated by the same tourism companies which are supposed to preserve this insane natural reserve. They provided water in plastic cups, with plastic lids and plastic straws, a few hundred for each boat! And all around us, we spotted old cups from previous trips. And single-use masks, cans, and bottles.

As a tourist, you’re not even allowed to bring your own shoes not to contaminate the sensitive ecosystem. And yet, these companies do not offer an eco-conscious solution in case, god forbid, you are thirsty. So please, bring your water bottles, and a big enough container for the day, and avoid creating more waste in the incredible underwater world.

We returned to the hotel, exhausted but pleased, had an incredible massage in the perfect spa, took a bath, something we haven’t done together in years and slept in a bed-shaped cloud.

It hasn’t been this hard to leave anywhere in such a long time. I’m usually pleased to go back home and feel the timing is perfect. But this hotel was very hard to leave, and I’m sure we’ll be back!